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To be married to a fort freak is to realize that there are people in this world who will detour 50 miles to see an 18th-century earthworks.

Maine’s 20 forts are actually a fascinating lot, monuments to the state’s unique and largely forgotten history.

Our favorite is Fort William Henry  off Rt. 130, Pemaquid Harbor. Open daily Memorial Day–Labor Day, 9–5.  This round, crenellated stone fort, built in 1907, is one of New England’s very few reminders of the French and Indian Wars. It replicates 1692 Fort William Henry, the third fort on this spot, built to be “the most expensive and strongest fortification that has ever been built on American soil,” but destroyed by the French a year later. Fort Frederick, built in 1729, was never attacked, but during the American Revolution locals tore it down lest it fall into the hands of the British. The present building contains exhibits on the early explorations of Maine and enshrines the “Rock of Pemaquid,” obviously meant as a rival to Plymouth Rock, suggesting that settlers alighted on it long before the Pilgrims ever got to Plymouth. Both the proven and possible history of this place are fascinating: The stockade built on this spot in 1630 is said to have been sacked and burned by pirate Dixie Bull. In 1677 Governor Andros built a wooden redoubt fortified by 50 men, but this was captured by Baron Castine and his Native allies (see “Castine”). The distinctive square clapboard house, dating from the 1770s, contains a library, restored parlor, and changing exhibits. Picnic tables on the grounds command water views.

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